back

This is a post about me being back and looking back so here is a picture of my back:

The other day I walked down Rosewood Drive to the nearby Publix to pick up some much needed groceries bringing my backpack in order to make carrying it all back easier. Walking places helps me see things I wouldn't when driving and it gives me time to think which has been both refreshing and needed these past weeks. Next thing I knew, I was outside the sliding doors of the Publix taking off my backpack so that it could be inspected before I entered the building.

I quickly shouldered the bag and checked to make sure no one saw what I'd just done laughing to myself as I walked inside.

I'd made that same motion every week for 5 months: taking off my backpack outside the grocery store near my apartment in Jerusalem to be checked by the security man at the door. Habits die hard, I guess.

And here I am five months later back "home" experiencing the "familiar" which is now tinged with new-ness. Its hard to describe but if I had to make up a random analogy in order to make it seem like I know what I'm talking about its like rediscovering your old favorite band. You put the headphones in and slowly realize you remember all the lyrics and each guitar riff and drum solo. It's comfortable, familiar, but also it has been so long it feels new. Maybe that's one of the harder parts of returning: for you the people, the sites, the language, your surroundings have all changed (and perhaps you yourself have changed) in a way that those who did not experience the change, who never left and came back, with you can not fully understand.

And that's okay. 

~

Living in Jerusalem was like a dream.

I was constantly catching myself looking out my window and thinking how weird it was that seeing the Temple Mount from my living room was normal. And then I would look out the window in my room and be blown away to see the sun coming out of Jordan, rising over the Dead Sea to brighten my room.

Living in Jerusalem was intense.

Jerusalem was intense because of the tension which fell upon your shoulders like a weight. This is tension between Israel's many diverse groups of people of all ethnic and religious backgrounds. Jerusalem especially seems to be at the center of the tension besides also being a central location for tourists from all over the world and being at the center of so much news and political debate. Jerusalem was also intense because you could just feel how people revered the many religious and cultural sites packed into the Old City. Pilgrims burning incense, praying, crying, worshipping as you walk through the ancient streets, through the ancient churches, past the ancient walls, and around the ancient mosques. It can make even the air seem heavy.

Living in Jerusalem was fun.

Don't let it's hard outer shell fool you: Jerusalem is also exciting. They say, "Pray in Jerusalem, party in Tel Aviv" which while very true neglects the fact that Jerusalem knows how to have a good time. From festivals and religious holidays to bonfires and street parties to concerts and performances, Jerusalem is not only an old city but a living, vibrant community.

~

I hope I will keep with me the Israeli tenacity, their energy and their questions.

To the American we tend to start with yes until we have to say no. In Israel I learned not to accept "no" without exploring every possible avenue to get a yes.

I hope to bring back the energy of israel as well. israelis are an active people. They celebrate the highs of life and mourn the lows. They push ahead and ever continue onward against all odds.

Questions. I thought I was curious and asked good questions until I got to israel and spent some time in the classroom where my fellow classmates were unafraid to ask and prod and dig deeper. I hope I don't let my curiosity sit unsatisfied and my questions unanswered.

~

The reality is that my semester in Israel is over and my surroundings are different now:

Instead of the call to prayer or the church bells, I hear a train whistle or simply silence

Instead of crowds of unfamiliar faces, I see faces I recognize and remember

Instead of Machane Yehuda or Damascus Gate, I shop at the local grocery store (which doesn't accept negotiations on their prices sadly...)

Instead of falafel and chips, I eat chickfila and waffle fries

Instead of "shalom" and "s'leecha" I hear "hello" and "y'all"

Instead of the sun setting over the Temple Mount, I watch it fade over my university...

#VIEWS from apt. 75-2 (ISRAEL)

#VIEWS from Horizon Garage (SOUTH CAROLINA)

I know my time abroad has affected me in so many other ways and I am so grateful to all my new friends who soon became good friends and to all my teachers and to all my "old" friends who visited me and let me share Israel with them.

I hope this and my other posts have at least given you a glance into my time abroad and that you'll be gracious to me when you ask "HOW WAS ISRAEL??" and I give a wildly unsatisfactory answer like "it was awesome" because I have so much to tell.

"Adventure is out there"

[ALSO, everyone go read "Innocents Abroad" by Mark Twain. 'tis great. Here's a taste: “Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things can not be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one's lifetime.”]

anticrastination

Like a dying beast is the student abroad who realizes they only have a few weeks left in paradise. They become frantic, visiting everywhere they have not yet been, trying foods they have not yet eaten, and filling up their schedules until at last the fateful day arrives when they are left feeling, "if only I'd had more time..."

I'm not exactly a dying beast but I have definitely noticed a change in my own mindset as I recognize I am in the last leg of the trip. For myself, when my own tendency is to become frantic and desperate, the value of disciplined times of reflection are important. Especially while abroad I feel the metaphor of students as sponges is especially relevant. The difference between studying abroad and "normal" university life is that back in the homeland I am soaking in daily life and work and classes, which can get overwhelming at times creating the feeling of being a sponge under a running faucet that can only retain a portion of what being poured into it. Studying abroad is like being a sponge in front of a fire hydrant that has been ripped open and is gushing thousands of gallons of high pressure water. 

So if I'm not careful, if I don't intentionally spend time reflecting, pondering, journaling, and soaking in these experiences, I doubt I'd ever retain even half as much of this experience and my trip will soon become like the Temple Mount: a glittering, golden memory of the past growing smaller and fainter as it shines in the distance.

The end looming near in the distance (whoa, so dramatic) is also a wonderful incentive to get out and do things, go places, and check off those boxes (for those of you who make lists). A departure date reminds me my time is limited and with one year left at South Carolina this is an important observation to take to heart....

I have been busy these past few weeks with schoolwork (yes I do have school), projects, tests, and a few more Israeli holidays and its been a while since I've posted so I'd like to share some random cool things I've been able to do while most of you peeps have been kickin it for the summer (and pictures are worth thousands of words so):

Israel's Memorial Day service at the Kotel (white: navy, olive: army, tan: air force)

Super quality photo of fireworks which marked the beginning of Independence Day

So in Israel most holidays are celebrated from evening to evening (similar to the way Shabbat is set up) and so Memorial Day and Independence Day are back to back. Now there is much to be discussed about the fact that Israel has a solemn day of remembrance of their military followed immediately by an extravagant day celebrating their independence. I spent the start of Memorial day (evening of May 10) at the Kotel where President Rivlin and other ranking officials and politicians and religious men gave speeches (in Hebrew) culminating in singing the Israeli National Anthem. Israelis will tell you that everyone knows at least one friend or family member who has fallen in combat. This makes the day especially poignant and adds to the weight of the moment of silence when loud sirens sound across the country and the entire nation stands still, remembering. Independence day begins the evening of May 11 with fireworks and a party that fills the entire city of Jerusalem so that you can hardly walk down Jaffa Street without being sprayed by something similar to silly string or being hit over the head by these blow-up hammers. I spent the following day celebrating the day with some very generous Israeli friends who invited me to spend the afternoon at their BBQ. I ate some good meat, met some cool people, and did I mention I ate some good meat?

When Israel celebrates a holiday they don't mess around. 

Went hiking in the desert during a heat wave. Went swimming in an oasis. Slept under the stars alongside the mosquitos. Hiked up a couple cliffs. We had fun. Type 2 fun. 

Frisbee tournament in Bethlehem

Powerful grafitti at the wall

Spent two days in Bethlehem participating in an awesome Ultimate tournament put on by Ultimate Palestine. It was a wonderful experience from arriving in the city just as a Nabka demonstration was going by, to playing some frisbee with some wonderful, competitive, and kind people, to visiting the wall. Yom al-Nabka (meaning "Day of the Catastrophe") is held on the same day as Israel's Independence Day and it commemorates the hundreds of thousands of Palestinians who either fled or were expelled from their homes as a result of the events of 1948. The passengers on the train you see in the picture are refugees from different areas of Palestine.

All said, the frisbee was glorious.  The group was mainly Palestinians (with a few internationals and randomly like 5 people from Georgia #smallworld) and it was a wonderful balance of competition and sportsmanship and fun. To top it all off I got a sick T-shirt.

Funny how it only takes about 20 minutes to get to Bethlehem and yet it seems like a world away. 

Made it up to the Temple Mount finally. Next step: get inside.

Cats are still a thing. You'd think they'd grow on you... but they don't.

Am I in Paris?

Fire

Israel literally has a day for bonfires. Lag BaOmer basically celebrates a Jewish Rabbi who was a mystic and revealed something. Apparently boys aged 3 get their first haircut during this time, kids run around and try to collect the most sticks for their fires, etc... For most of the country its a day to have a giant nighttime picnic and make huge fires and eat Kosher s'mores. There were so many bonfires you could smell the smoke as soon as you walked outside. 

When Israel celebrates a holiday they don't mess around.

Oh and there's some sort of lights festival going on that makes it feel like Christmas. 

Israel is a land of contrasts (see above for case and point).

In contrast to the adventures above: I've also been enjoying classes here, in particular my "Art and Science of Negotiation" class where we actually negotiate through certain simulations and exercises. Super useful and interesting learning the Israeli way of negotiating and one good observation has been,

"Israelis start with no and work their way to yes; Americans start with yes and work their way to no"

Coming from the south, where everyone says yes before they say no and where everyone's favorite restaurant says "my pleasure", I don't think I've ever heard "no" mean "maybe" so much. Be prepared America. I'm being trained to not take no for an answer so who knows what I'll be able to do now.

Welp, if you've made it this far thanks for following along and mulling over my musings. No, this isn't my last post, but I thought I'd say thanks.

If you have any questions for me about my time here feel free to comment or send me a message or write it down and as me when we hang out and you buy me food (wow, what a great idea Nathan I'm definitely going to do that now!)

ALSO, its not too late to visit! haha

downhill

Nothing like a week without bread to make you appreciate the delicious taste of freshly baked pita.

(Sidenote: Kosher-for-Pesach bread is the worst. Beware and stay away at all costs)

During Pesach (Passover) in Israel leaven is not sold in most stores and restaurants throughout the nation and especially in Jerusalem. And most shops are closed anyways for the 7 day holiday as people travel to visit family for the Seder and then across the country in their rush to find water somewhere. The Dead Sea, Sea of Galilee, Ein Gedi, Tel Aviv beach and other locations where water happens to accumulate are very popular destinations during the week. For the sake of helping visualization: I remember driving home from the Dead Sea while on the other side of the road a line of cars as far as the eye could see were driving along the winding road beside that great bathtub of saltwater. Each car packed with towels, BBQ equipment, food and family; the perfect combination for a day of fun in the sun.

But, alas, the bread has returned and the sun is shining and its all downhill from here.

Thanks to the English language downhill can mean many different things so clarification is needed here. What I mean is in contrast with the first portion of my stay. These past few months could be described as uphill: from actually living on a hill to learning how to live in Jerusalem to learning how classes and schedule and life works at the University to meeting new people. This uphill portion can sometimes carry with it the feeling of slowness while working through these challenges but once at the peak one looks behind them and it all seemed to have happened so fast.

From here on out it will be a downhill climb. Just as long a distance as when uphill but seemingly easier. I look ahead and see myself again commenting on how fast time flew by. This observation has inspired me to even more seize the moments along journey back and make the most of where I am. When I come down from this Mount and return home I hope to have cherished my time and not rushed downhill.

Probably the best part about Pesach (the worst being the lack of bread), was the two weeks I got off of University which allowed for plenty of adventuring time.

First, a hiking trip to northern(ish) Israel:

After an exciting pre-Pesach "hike" trip along two portions of the Yam'v'Yam I decided to venture outside of Israel to one of the few surrounding countries which is relatively welcoming to those people with an Israeli VISA on their passport: Jordan.

Jordan was a wonderful and refreshing time visiting with friends, hiking through Wadis, BBQing on roofs, going to large flea markets (aka outdoor thrift stores), and getting my mind blown by the overwhelming beauty of carved rocks in Petra. 

After Jordan I spent Seder weekend with the very gracious and hospitable Ezer family. The weekend was full of great conversations about Dostoyevsky's Crime and Punishment, why Hebrew sounds worse than Arabic, how difficult it is for Israelis to get a drivers license (let alone a car), the richness of the English language, the impact of the four sons mentioned in the haggadah on education in Israel, etc... I played some Peter, Paul and Mary songs on guitar and we sang John Denver together. Seder and dinner was very enjoyable and I even got to use my Spanish in conversation with their aunt from Argentina! The next day we visited the grave and park commemorating one of the Zionist movements greatest benefactors Mr. Rothschild. (Apparently the Hebrew or Israeli version of Fiddler on the Roof says "If I were a Rothschild..." instead of "If I were a rich man..."). And after the park we sealed the successful weekend with some delicious banana chocolate icecream which brought back sweet memories of banana pudding from home.

Lastly, I gallivanted across Israel seeing some interesting sites from lesser known ones like Lachish (a critical fortress that guarded the main road from Egypt to Jerusalem with its really old siege ramp) and Susya (considered one of the first messianic communities as documented by a Hebrew mosaic and home of some really awesome underground tunnels used as escape routes in defense against invading nomads) to more popular sites like Masada, Qumran, Ein Gedi and of course the Dead Sea.

Lachish

This is what they do in Supermarkets to cover up all the foods with leaven so the store is still Kosher but so they don't have to throw out food.

Sunset

Masada

Me and an Ibex that wanted a photoshoot

The crew, the van, the view

Amazing being able to travel to sites thousands of years old. Literal thousands of years old. I once made an offhand comment when we were somewhere. A guy mentioned a building was like 500 years old to which I said "Wow, that's pretty old". He laughed and said "In Israel if its not over a thousand years old its still young!" At this point I feel like I could pick up a random rock off the ground and there is a 90% chance it is older than the United States of America. 

After all these travels it was interesting to return to Jerusalem and to my apartment and feel like it is a place where I can feel relaxed and comfortable. Funny how just two months ago I was traveling here all the way from my home country and just these past two weeks I was traveling around the region only to return to my "home" here in Jerusalem. Excited to continue exploring Israel in the upcoming months learning more and more about the people, the culture, the politics and the business environment here, but also I am excited to have that feeling of returning amplified when I travel down from Mount Scopus to America.

Cherishing my time here while it lasts (as I cherish how delicious real bread tastes after a week of matzah).

"Wherever you are be all there"

empty plates

Food should be a  very important part of everyone's diet.

 Because I believe in that statement I eat food basically every day here in Israel and sometimes it looks good enough to take a photo of it (other times I just take photos to show my mom that I am able to cook). Please excuse the blurry photos.

I decided for some reason people follow food blogs so why not make a blog of my food. And so here is a blog post that will hopefully make you hungry.

Also, I hope this shows you that there is more to eat in Israel than just falafel and shwarma and pita... not to mention that those foods taste amazing and not to mention that I eat 12 shekel falafel regularly at one of the best falafel places in the world which is right across the street from where I am staying.

First, as an aspiring business major I would like to broadcast the evidence that I support small business in Israel and not just small business but future entrepreneurs in this the Startup Nation:

I support small business. Later they tried to sell me cupcakes. #startupnation

Eating what is called "St. Peter's Fish" right by the Sea of Galilee with some French guys who I pretend not to know. 

This. This is a Nutella filled crepe. It was warm, the chocolate was melting, and I was hungry (and now you're craving Nutella)

Nothing like some homemade Spanish Tortilla (or Spanish Omlette), potatoes and mayonaise, toasted pita, grilled mushrooms, etc... basically we prepared eggs and potatoes in every known to man.

Lamb kebab focaccia. One of the most delicious pieces of bread I have ever tasted.

I did not take this picture (which is why it isn't blurry), but this is grilled halloumi from Aroma which is basically the Israeli version of Starbucks which Israeli's claim is superior. I don't drink coffee so I don't really care.

Don't be deceived. This is not a picture of a grapefruit. This is art.

A burger. If only there was bacon on it. If only...

Pictured: seafood dumplings. Not pictured: best customer service in all of Israel.

Cooking means eating. Some marinated steak, rice, and sweet potato "crisps".

Rice, steak, grilled red peppers and zucchini.

Chicken fettuccine with mushrooms = yum in the tum.

BENEDICTS. 

This restaurant gets its own little section because they serve breakfast all day every day (one of the few 24/7 restaurants in Israel) and they always greet you with "Good Morning!" Basically, its heaven on earth as you will witness in the following photos. I mean they gave us free samples of french toast with maple syrup while we waited outside during our 1 hour wait to get into the place...

Even dogs understand how good this place is. I looked just like this dog while waiting for my food.

Matthew ready for some breakfast for lunch.

Nathan admiring Matthew's shakshuka (a delicious breakfast food you should look up on google or see upper right hand corner in photo below) and wishing his food would hurry up so he can stuff his face. Feat. Alexandre with indian braids.

Heaven on earth. Photo curtesy of professional food blogger Zacharie Amsellem. 

holy days

Me sitting on a chair with water in my hand and my mouth wide open... i just thought this was a good way to start this post so i did it

So Purim and Easter happened.

What's Purim? The sound cats make in Israel? A mispronunciation of that hairstyle where people make their hair curly? A city in Russia?

Purim is none of those things, but I am sure you are all happy I somehow incorporated cats into my blog once again.

The history of Purim is found in the book of Esther during a time when the Jewish people were in Persia ruled at the time by King Ahashverosh. One of the King's advisors, Haman, planned the genocide of the Jewish people in Persia, but his plans were foiled by Mordecai and Esther, who had recently become Queen of Persia. Purim celebrates the deliverance of the Jewish people from Haman as stipulated in Esther 9:22: "...that they should make them days of feasting and gladness, days for sending gifts of food to one another and gifts to the poor."

A simplified version, as one classmate summarized, of all of Israel's holidays is: "Someone tried to kill us, God rescued us, we celebrate".

That is the history of Purim. The modern practice by the more secular population of Israel looks more like an Israeli version of the American Halloween: everyone dresses up in all sorts of costumes walking around the city celebrating. Even a guy dressed as Aladdin rode down the road (as seen on YouTube) in Tel Aviv. Of course there are varying explanations as to why this tradition of costume wearing has come about, from the fact that God seems hidden behind the scenes in the story of Esther to the fact Esther hid her Jewish identity while becoming Queen of Persia (see book of Esther for the whole story)...

I dressed up as a cowboy. My excuse for not eliminating American stereotypes with my costume is that I found the cowboy hat at the Dead Sea and the red bandana brought the total cost of my costume to about $2. Hence, the cowboy. Although I had many people ask if I was Kurt Cobain. And then one guy from Brazil asked if I was trying to be Captain Love from Zorro. The pictures below are for you to make your own verdict as to who I was or should have been (one thing is certain though: I am definitely happier than either of them):

What's Easter? Someone with English as a second language trying to tell you to go further east? One who easts? The southern way of saying "he stir"? I stir, you stir, she stir, easter?

Easter is none of those things. In fact, I'm sorry for the last one. I may have been trying a bit too hard to think of another thing to say...

Easter is the Christian celebration of the resurrection of Jesus Christ. Good Friday (the Friday before Easter Sunday) is when Christians remember the death of Jesus on the cross which was prophesied in Isaiah 53, "...but he was wounded for our transgressions; he was crushed for our iniquities; upon him was the chastisement that brought us peace, and with his stripes we are healed." Easter Sunday is the day Christians remember when the same Jesus was raised from the dead, a fact that separates Christianity from other major religions.

I spent Easter visiting some of the major biblical sites in Jersualem from the Garden Tomb to the Mount of Olives and the Church of Ascension to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

The Garden Tomb

One of the great things about Israel is the sheer density of historical and religious locations packed into the tiny country. Furthermore, Jersualem itself contains major religious sites for all three major religions.

Just look at the weekend I just described to you. In one weekend there was a Jewish holiday, a secular, Westernized costume party with people from all over the world, and a major Christian celebration. Sitting on the Mount of Olives on Easter Sunday looking over the diverse city below church bells tolled, ringing out across the hills telling of their joy. Shortly afterward, the cries of the Muslim call to prayer sounded out in the same city.

I am still in the stage of my journey here that I am trying to absorb more than I interject and so I am still absorbing and observing all these happenings while trying to process and ask questions more than I force my perceptions and stereotypes. There are definite tensions in this city and nation. You can hear them in the discord of sounds echoing across the landscape on Easter Sunday. You can hear them in conversations and opinions. You can hear them in newspapers and tweets.

You can hear them,
if you listen.

Some of the loudest stretch out and reach the ears of Americans. Others are whispered in a foreign tongue such that only who have broken bread listening to broken hearts can truly hear.

I say this, first, to excuse away my lack of commentary on the politics in this area of the world and, secondly, to encourage you to be engaged in the community around you in a way that enables you to hear the struggles and the voices of those around you. There are oppressed voices in every community.

Listen and notice.

You might just find harmony where you thought there was discord and beauty where you thought there was filth.